How do you lay a floating floor? In this guide from Payresa, specialists in floating floors and parquet in Malaga, we explain step by step how to install floating floorboards or floating parquet: what you need, how to prepare the subfloor, where to start, how to handle cuts and finishing details, and which mistakes to avoid so the floor lasts.
Summary: how to lay a floating floor in 7 steps
- Leave the boxes in the room for as long as the manufacturer specifies so the boards acclimatise.
- Check that the subfloor is level, clean and dry; level out any irregularities.
- Roll out the underlay, with a damp-proof barrier over concrete or tiles.
- Start from the straightest wall, with the tongue facing outwards and spacers for the expansion gap.
- Click the boards together and stagger the joints between rows.
- Deal with doors and the last row using made-to-measure cuts, without losing the expansion gap.
- Remove the spacers and fix the skirting board to the wall, never to the floor.
Floating floorboards and floating parquet are fitted using the same system, so these steps work for both. Before you start, always read the manufacturer's instructions: every brand has its own particularities.
What is a floating floor or floating parquet?
A floating floor (also called floating parquet) is a laminate or wood floor that is not fixed to the subfloor with adhesive: it is laid over an underlay and the boards join together, usually with a click system. The floor therefore “floats” on the existing surface, which makes it much easier to lay and allows boards to be taken up without damaging them.
Its main advantages are:
- Quick, clean installation, with no building work or glue.
- It can be laid over almost any level surface (tiles, concrete, terrazzo…).
- Good thermal and acoustic insulation thanks to the underlay.
- A wide range of designs and finishes.
Tools and materials you will need
Materials:
- Floating floorboards or floating parquet boards.
- Underlay (polyethylene foam or acoustic underlay).
- Tape to join the strips of underlay.
- Spacers to keep the expansion gap.
- Skirting boards and construction adhesive.
Tools:
- Tape measure, pencil and sliding bevel.
- Jigsaw or mitre saw.
- Hammer and tapping block.
- Spirit level and utility knife.
Before you start: preparing the subfloor and the material
Acclimatise the boards
Leave the boards in the room for about 48 hours before installing them so they adjust to the temperature and humidity. This will prevent warping later on.
Check and level the subfloor
The subfloor must be clean, dry and level. Sweep or vacuum, mop and leave it to dry completely. If there are irregularities of more than 2-3 mm, apply a levelling compound: an uneven subfloor causes noise and premature wear.
Where to start laying a floating floor
This is one of the most common questions. The usual approach is to start in the main room of the home, such as the living room, entrance hall or main hallway, as these tend to be the first spaces you see when you walk in. In a single-storey house with several rooms, you would normally start with the main bedroom or the landing, although every job has its own particularities.
Within the room, you start from a main wall, and that first row is known as the “master row”. The whole installation is built from it, which is why its position matters so much.
The starting wall should be as straight as possible and parallel to the rest of the layout. If you start from a wall that is not square with the rest of the space, the installation can end up out of square and the pattern of the floor will not match the layout of the home, which looks unsightly and can affect how the floor performs. Check that the walls are square and parallel before you start.
As for direction, it is advisable to lay the boards in the direction of the light, that is, perpendicular to the wall with the window. With natural light the room looks larger and the joints are better disguised.
How to lay a floating floor step by step
1. Lay the underlay
Roll out the underlay over the whole surface in parallel strips, without overlapping them, and tape the joins. Over concrete or tiles, the underlay must include a damp-proof barrier. We explain which one to choose in the best underlay.
2. Lay the master row
Place the first board with the tongue facing away from the wall and leave an expansion gap of about 10-15 mm around the whole perimeter (follow the manufacturer's instructions). Use spacers to keep that gap even: it allows the wood to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity.
3. Carry on fitting
Join the next board to the previous one: insert it at an angle and press down until the click locks. If necessary, adjust it with the tapping block, without hitting the board directly. Carry on until the row is complete.
4. Cut the last board in the row and start the next
Measure and cut the last piece of the row with the jigsaw or mitre saw, keeping the expansion gap. Use the offcut to start the next row, so that the joints between rows do not line up (staggered effect). Carry on like this with the following rows.
5. Deal with doors and obstacles
At door frames, take measurements with the sliding bevel, mark the cut and undercut the base of the frame so the floor slides underneath without losing the expansion gap. Measure carefully before cutting each piece.
6. Last row and finishing
The last row usually needs cutting lengthways: measure the remaining space, cut the boards to size and always keep the expansion gap.
7. Fit the skirting boards
Remove the spacers and fit the skirting boards. Cut their ends at 45º at the corners so they fit neatly and fix them to the wall, never to the floor, for example with construction adhesive on the back. The skirting covers the expansion gap and gives the finishing touch.
8. Cleaning and first care
Clean up the dust from the installation, avoid wetting the floor for the first 24 hours and use products made specifically for floorboards or parquet.
Professional tips for a perfect finish
- Always start from the straightest wall to avoid the rows drifting.
- Use an installation kit (spacers, tapping block and pull bar) to fit the boards without damaging them.
- Stagger the joints between rows: the finish is more natural and stronger.
- Keep the temperature stable during installation.
- Cut with the visible face down if you use a jigsaw, to avoid splintering.
Common mistakes when laying a floating floor
- Not leaving an expansion gap.
- Laying over a damp or uneven subfloor.
- Not acclimatising the boards.
- Laying the floor without underlay.
- Fixing the skirting boards to the floor instead of the wall.
These mistakes lead to lifting, noise or damage in the medium term.
Haven't chosen the material yet? We compare them in laminate or vinyl flooring and in the difference between floating floors and parquet. For day-to-day care, see how to clean a floating floor.
When is it better to hire a professional?
Although installing a floating floor is within reach of many DIY enthusiasts, it is worth calling in a specialist in these cases:
- Very uneven surfaces or rooms with complex shapes.
- Large areas or several rooms in a row.
- High-end parquet.
- Underfloor heating.
Frequently asked questions
Can a floating floor be laid over tiles?
Yes, as long as they are level and in good condition.
How long does installation take?
As a guide, a professional fitter lays about 10 m² of floating floor a day. The final timescale depends on the square metres, the furniture and the cuts, and you can walk on it straight away.
Does it make a noise when you walk on it?
No, if the subfloor is properly level and it is installed with underlay.
What goes under a floating floor?
An underlay: foam with a damp-proof barrier over concrete or tiles, or a specific underlay if there is underfloor heating or noise matters. The floor is never glued to the subfloor.
What goes in first, the floor or the doors?
If you are replacing the doors, the usual approach is to lay the floor first and then adjust the doors to the new height. If you are keeping the doors, they need to be planed at the bottom so they don't rub, and the frames undercut so the floor slides underneath.
How much does it cost to have a floating floor installed?
It depends on the square metres, the underlay and the cuts around doors and wardrobes. At Payresa the labour costs the same whatever the material (laminate, wood or vinyl), and includes the foam underlay, planing the interior doors, the skirting boards and a threshold profile at each door. After a free visit and measurement, we give you a fixed quote.
Can it be installed in kitchens or bathrooms?
Yes, but with a specific moisture-resistant product.
Floating floor installation in Malaga
If you would rather not worry about the fitting, at Payresa we take care of installing floating floors in Malaga with full guarantees. Visit our showroom or get in touch to request a no-obligation quote.